This page has a discussion on it from our Egroup so it runs like a conversation

I have found that for my 4" doll the following works.

1) The slip must be thinned more for the tiny fingers than for the body.
I time them to sit for 2 minutes before draining the extra slip from the
mold. This I know may be different for you, but thought I would add anyway.

2) When thinning, I use an eye dropper from the antibiotics I get from the vet for my cats . I put about a dropper of distilled water into the bottle I pour from and shake it to mix. If it looks like the right consistency I stop, if I need more I put it in drop by drop so I don't over thin.

3) I have found that the body for my doll should be poured no more than 3 times before letting it dry for a day. I normally pour 2 on one day and leave alone for 1 day. This seems to work out well and I also pour using a little thicker slip for the body than I do the hands/arms.

4) I only pour a cottage cheese container of slip from the gallon jug at a time. I strain it through an old piece of hose. I then take from the container and pour into a bottle that was intended to put dye on cloth. I can get 3 body pours from one bottle and many pours for the arms. It is much easier to handle. I use a straw that bends and blow the extra slip from the mold when I am ready to drain. I only do this on the body mold.

I hope this helps. I am happy to report that the little fairies went over well at the show. Barbara sold 3 of hers from the display table. I was quite taken with our table display and everyone did a great job on their fairy.

I use nickrome wire inserted in the leatherhard greenware stage as wire hooks. The nickrome wire can be purchased through National Artcraft in various thickness. I twist the end into a 'U' shape, insert it into the limb cavity's porcelain, and fire it to a cone 6. That way you have your stringing loops without all the mess of glue or plaster. AND, it's very sturdy. Just need enough space to get your elastic through after it's been fired.

Works great!

Jill, what a great idea with the wire . Tell me, how would you make the hook for the arms and legs? Do you leave a section sticking out from the arm opening at the top and push the wire through each side of the extended piece ? I have been leaving a section of porcelain sticking out from the arm and drilling two small holes on each side of the protruding section and firing.
This is easy for large doll parts but the small dolls are difficult and break easily. After firing to bisque, we string the elastic through the holes. We are trying to do a 5 inch Baby Hilda so, I think I will pour more legs and arms and try twisting the wire for a loop to thread the elastic through. You have some good ideas.

Sue, I did forget to mention that for small dolls it IS best to leave some of the spare as you have been doing. For a jointed body, it is best to leave some of the spare to assure mobility of the limb in its' socket. It is INTO that spare that is left, that I insert the nickrome wire. Just a small amount of the loop, an upside down U, needs to be above the surface~just enough for the thin elastic to thread through after it is fired into the
porcelain. Because I want to pull those doll's arms and legs nice and tight, I do add a little slip in the pour hole AFTER I have inserted the little loops of nickrome. AND, just in case there is no breathing room for the porcelain during firing, I take a small needle and poke a tiny hole at the base of the spare. As far as stringing~ I use the upside down V method for attaching the legs and head, starting with one leg, up to the head, down to
the other leg, across to the first and tie off. Then the arms are '-----' straight across, one to the other and tying off.

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